Remembering, as I do, The Manor from thirty years ago when it was about the only civilised watering hole for many miles around its location as the centre of England, I returned to it with some misgivings, noting immediately the greatly increased size. Well, I needn't have worried. What has been done is in good style and amazingly the quality of the food has, if anything improved. To begin with there are no great adventures going on in the kitchen and the dishes which emerge have a clarity and precision which combines classic disciplines with great skill. This is a place for those who are prepared to sacrifice pretension in the cause of guaranteed enjoyment. House wine £14.95 and a sound wine list.