Warwickshire contains many beautiful houses, halls and the odd castle, but few of them exceed the sheer dream-like quality of 17th century Nailcote. You will be dining in its smart traditional restaurant with the inglenook fireplace and candle-lit oak tables. There is an overall formality that is complimentary rather than off-putting as you scan the menu for all that is good in the way of modern British cooking. If you are a fan of the traditional Sunday roast lunch, but dread the squalid sequel in the kitchen at 5 pm when all the guests have gone, haste you forth on the next available weekend and enjoy being spoiled for a few hours. Commendable wine list and house wine at £14.50.